Cosmetic Ingredients Reference Guide & Dictionary
Understanding Labels, Descriptions, Warnings, and Safety
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Name Information
A
Abietic Acid Obtained from pine rosin. Used as a texturiser and foaming in soaps, making vinyls, lacquers and plastics. Can cause allergic reactions; skin and mucous membrane irritation; harmful to marine life.
Abrasives The most frequently used are calcium carbonate (chalk) and, in toothpaste, di-calcium phosphate dihydrate.
Absolutes Pure essential oils acquired from plants (mostly flowers) and used in products as natural fragrance additives.
Acetamide MEA Used in lipsticks and cream blusher to retain moisture. Causes adverse reactions, and is toxic, carcinogenic, and mutagenic.
Acetal Fruit flavouring solvent; synthetic perfumes, hypnotic in medicine. Central nervous system depressant, respiratory, cardiovascular collapse; no known skin toxicity, possible high blood pressure. On NIH list.
Acetaldehyde Fragrance in cosmetics, perfume, silvering of mirrors, synthetic rubber. Mucous membrane irritation, liver damage, kidney, respiratory, neurotoxicity; CNS depression; skin irritation; tetragenic; carcinogenic; harmful to aquatic organisms.
Acetamide MEA - n-acetyl ethanolamine Antistatic agent, humectant in hair shampoos and conditioners, skin cream, hair tonic. Mild skin irritation, caused liver cancer in rats, may contain DEA.
Acetaminopropyl trimonium chloride Antistatic agent in shampoos, bath soaps, conditioners
Acetarsol - acetarsone Antimicrobial used in mouthwash, toothpaste, feminine hygiene products. Causes sensitisation, allergic reactions; lethal dose in mice is only 0.004g/kg of body weight.
Acetate An acetic acid salt ; the word that follows or precedes acetate on an ingredient list determines the function.
Acetic Acid Acid found in vinegar, some fruits, and human sweat. Used in hair dyes and hand lotions, and in lotions for bleaching freckles. Skin irritant and toxic to lungs.
Acetone Colourless, flammable liquid. Used in cologne, dishwashing liquid and detergent, nail polish, nail polish removers. It is excessively toxic. Inhalation can cause dryness of the mouth and throat; dizziness, nausea, incoordination, slurred speech, drowsiness, and, in severe exposures, coma. Acts primarily as a central nervous system (CNS) depressant.
Acetonitrile - methylacynide Precursor of cyanide. Solvent used in artificial nail remover, extraction processes. Nervous system poison, skin irritant, gastrointestinal and liver toxicity, teratogenic, fatal if swallowed. On Canadian Hot list.
Acetylated Lanolin Found in baby products, lipsticks, cosmetic creams, eye makeup, hair conditioner as an emulsifier/emollient. Undergoing safety for safety. May be contaminated with pesticide reside.
Acetylated Lanolin Alcohol Helps soften skin and has anti-allergenic tendencies; is highly prone to comedogenicity (causes blackheads and/or white heads) - this is an example of an alcohol that may be drying to the skin.
Acetylmethionyl methylsilanol elastinate Antistatic agent. Considered safe in cosmetics such as hair conditioner and skin conditioners.
Acetyl tyrosine Biological additive used in cosmetics, suntan creams and liquids, dietary supplement. Non-essential amino acid, generally recognised as safe.
Acid colours - black, blue, brown, green, orange, red violet, yellow Tints and dyes for hair colouring. Many can cause skin, eye and mucous membrane irritation. See Azo Dyes. See Coal Tar.
Acid Rinse Extremely useful for eliminating soap films from the hair after shampooing. A mixture of vinegar or lemon juice and water is a common one.
Acrylates Copolymer Active ingredient in an oil-absorbing gel.
Acrylates/Octylpropenamide Copolymer A binder, film former used in nail polish, blusher, hairspray, mascara. Creates a water-repelling basis for cosmetics claiming water-proof properties. A strong irritant.
Acylamide copolymer A film former, thickener used in nail enamels, cosmetics. Causes liver, reproductive and neurotoxicity. Toxic by skin absorption. Hazardous to the environment, especially harmful to fish.
After Shave A perfumed liquid usually containing alcohol used to soothe the skin after shaving. May contain menthol to cool irritated skin.
After Shave Balm After shave with a thicker consistency containing lotion for increased moisturizing capabilities.
Ahnfeltia concinna Botanical additive used in skin conditioners and beauty aids.
Albumin Type of protein found in blood, egg whites, milk, fruits, and vegetables.
Alchemy The study and practice of chemistry in the Middle Ages which focused primarily on the transmutation of metals into gold and the finding of a universal remedy for disease.
Alcohol A group of compounds that includes ethanol, methanol, and others. Acts as carrying and antifoaming agent as well as a water and oil solvent. It dries quickly, and if synthetically produced is carcinogenic, mutagenic, toxic and can cause adverse reactions.
Algae/Seaweed Extract An emollient, restoring moisture content to skin; claims to have antioxidant properties.
Alkyl Benzine Sulphonate A detergent used in shampoos, bubble baths. Believed to be non-toxic orally, drying of the skin, may cause skin irritation.
Alkyloamides Groups of synthetic fatty acids designated as DEA, MEA, MIPA, and PEG. Used for thickening, gelling, emulsifying, emolliency, skin and hair conditioning, foam boosting, foam stabilizing, wetting, opacifying, lubricating, powder binding, skin protecting, fungicidal properties, and super-fatting. Found in shampoos, bubble baths, and liquid hand and body cleansers. Harmful when contaminated by nitrosamines and harmful to the environment.
Alkyl-phenol-ethoxylades Has been found to reduce male sperm count, and to mimic estrogens in the body. It is widely used in shampoo, causes adverse reactions and has been shown to be toxic, mutagenic and carcinogenic.
Allantoin Anti-microbial, oral care agent reported to have healing, soothing, and anti-irritating properties. Extracted from urea, which is derived from the urine of most animals, and from herbs like comfrey or uva ursi.
Aloe Vera/ Gel Is a compound expressed from the leaf of the aloe plant, which is a South African lily-like plant. A moisture storehouse for enzymes, vitamins, proteins, and minerals that support skin functions, Aloe Vera helps maintain the skin's moisture balance and stimulates blood circulation. Tightens and rejuvenates skin leaving it silky feeling.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) Do not use on children or infants. Group of acids that appear naturally in fruit. AHA’s include: citric acid (citrus fruits), glycolic acid (sugar cane), lactic acid (milk), and the less common AHA's used in cosmetics malic acid (apples) and tartaric acid (wine). Used in toners, creams. Skin is exfoliated chemically instead of mechanically via abrasion, dries and increases skin aging. Supposed to be anti-wrinkle, found in many skin and hair care products. Higher risk of skin cancer. Used as a solvent originally in cleaning compounds and for tanning leather. A smooth finish is developed by stripping the outer layer of the epidermis, which causes the irritated skin to puff up and thus fill in the lines and wrinkles. The US FDA warns that strengths over 3% may thin the skin. Can be a skin irritant causing redness and rashes.
Alpha Lipoic Acid An antioxidant; is both water and fat soluble so it can go to many areas of a cell.
Alpha-Terpineol Perfumery – In lilac and lily of the valley type fragrances. Also in apple blossom, fougere and specialty perfumes. In addition to concentrates and luxury fragrances, alpha-Terpineol is used extensively in fragrances for bath preparations, soaps, detergents, polishes and other household products
Pharmaceutical – Material complying with the BP 1980 can usually be supplied.
Flavour – Used in moderate amounts in berry flavours, and in lemon, lime, nutmeg, orange, peach and various spice and floral types. Alpha-Terpineol is a nature-identical flavouring substance as defined by the International Organization of the Flavour Industry (IOFI).

Causes central nervous system disorders. Highly irritating to mucous membranes. Aspiration into the lungs can produce pneumonitis or even fatal oedema. Can also cause "excitement, ataxia (loss of muscular coordination), hypothermia, CNS and respiratory depression, and headache. Prevent repeated or prolonged skin contact.

Alum Usually in crystal or powder form; has strong astringent properties; used in stypic sticks, popular with men who often nick themselves shaving.
Aluminium Used as a colour additive in cosmetics, especially eye shadows. Another form of Aluminium is used in deodorants and antiperspirants. Listed as carcinogenic, toxic and mutagenic. Ingestion or inhalation can aggravate kidney and lung disorders, cardiovascular, reproductive, neurotoxicity. Evidence of link to Alzheimer's disease. EU Parliament said aluminium should be banned.
Aluminium acetate Anti-microbial used in antiperspirants, deodorants, barrier creams, waterproofing, fabric finishes, dye for furs. Causes skin rashes, severe sloughing of the skin, ingestion of large doses can cause diarrhoea, nausea, vomiting and bleeding. See aluminium.
Aluminium Chloride Used as a deodorant agent and can be found in lipsticks, antiperspirants. Causes skin irritation, allergic reactions, reproductive and neurotoxicity, teratogenic, harmful to aquatic organisms. See aluminium.
Aluminium Chlorohydrate Used as a deodorant agent and can be found in deodorants, antiperspirants. Causes contact allergic reactions, hair follicle infections, irritation of abraded skin. See aluminium.
Aluminium Hydroxide Is less toxic than mercury, arsenic, lead or cadmium, but it appears to be more persistent than most of them. The danger is one that only manifests itself over long periods of time. 

"Aluminium hydroxide is used in vaccines to increase the body's production of antibodies, though no one knows how it works," says Purdue researcher Stanley Hem, professor of industrial and physical pharmacy. Aluminium is a protoplasmic poison and a deadly, persistent neurotoxin. No living systems use aluminium as part of a biochemical process. Ironically, the American Academy of Paediatrics admits that Aluminium is now being implicated as interfering with a variety of cellular and metabolic processes in the nervous system and in other tissues. As of today, it is still in vaccines. Aluminium is a known toxin that can cause encephalitis, bone disease and anemia in susceptible people. The kidneys eliminate Aluminium from the body and so people with renal problems are at risk of Aluminium toxicity. All infants have reduced renal function and may not be able to effectively excrete excessive Aluminium. Kidney function is low at birth and reaches adult level by 1-2 years of age. The presence of Aluminium in a vaccine can cause small nodules to develop under the skin of some babies.
Aluminium zirconium octachlorohydrate Used as a deodorant agent in non-aerosol antiperspirants, deodorants. Harmful, contact allergic reactions, skin irritation, lung damage, granulomas. See aluminium.
Ambergris A fixative and flavouring found in perfumes, food, beverages, cigarettes. It is 80% cholesterol, no know side effects.
Amino Acids Every living cell in the body contains protein and cannot function properly without it. Approximately 80 amino acids are found in nature; only 20 are necessary for human metabolism. Some must be supplied by food and are called "essential". Amino acids are rapidly absorbed in the blood stream, and in combination with vitamins, provide essential nutrients to a wound area to promote healing.
Aminomethyl propanol An emulsifier used in hairspray, shaving cream, cosmetic creams, deodorant. Considered safe up to 1% concentration. May cause skin irritation.
2-Amino-4-Nitrophenol
4-Amino-2-Nitrophenol
Used as a hair colourant in orange-red and medium brown hair dyes. On a list of substances facing a ban in the EU. Compound descriptor: Tumorigenic, Mutagen, Primary Irritant
Aminophenol A colourant used in hair dyes. Compound descriptor: Tumorigenic, Mutagen, Primary Irritant
Ammonium carbonate Used as a neutraliser, buffer in permanent wave solutions and creams, fire extinguishers. Causes skin rash on scalp, forehead and hands, contact dermatitis.
Ammonium chloride Used as a acidifier, buffer in bubble baths, hair bleach, shampoos, batteries, dies, medicines. Possible skin and eye irritation in some people. Toxic to aquatic animals. Compound descriptor : Drug, Mutagen, Primary Irritant.
Ammonium cocoyl isethionate Used as a cleanser in soaps, shampoos. Considered safe in cosmetic use, may cause skin rashes.
Ammonium cocoyl sarcosinate A surfactant used in shampoos and dentifrices. May be contaminated with carcinogenic nitrosamines. Possible mutagen.
Ammonium hydroxide A buffering agent, denaturant used in hair dyes, hair straightener, barrier cream, mascaras, cigarettes, stain removers, detergents. Irritating to the eyes and mucous membranes; may cause hair breakage; toxic by ingestion; harmful to the environment. Compound description : Mutagen, Primary Irritant
Ammonium laureth sulphate (ALES) A surfactant used in shampoos, bubble baths, hand wash, dishwashing liquid, detergent. May be contaminated with carcinogenic nitrosamines.
Ammonium lauryl sulphate (ALS) A surfactant, foaming agent used in shampoos, bubble baths, liquid hand and body wash, toothpaste, bath gel, dishwashing liquid, car wash detergent. Possibly derived from natural coconut alcohols. Acts as a mild cleanser replacement of SLS in a number of skin care products. Effects are considered milder than SLS and doesn't have the chronic toxicity problems of SLS however this may be due to the lack of research carried out on this ingredient. One study showed that at only 2% it was deemed as extremely irritating and just as irritating as SLS.
See Anionic Surfactants
See Sodium Laureth Sulphate 
See Nitrosating Agents
Ammonium lauroyl sarcosinate A surfactant used in shampoos and dentifrices. May be contaminated with carcinogenic nitrosamines.
Ammonium persulphate A preservative, oxidiser used in cosmetics, dyes, skin lightener, soap, detergents. Can cause asthma, mucous membrane and skin irritation, brittle hair.
Ammonium sulphate A surfactant, cleanser used in permanent wave lotions, tanning, filler in vaccines. Liver, neuro and respiratory toxicity, dry and denatured hair. Compound descriptor: Agricultural Chemical, Mutagen
Ammonium thioglycolate An antioxidant used in hair straighteners, depilatories, permanent wave solutions. Can cause severe burns and blistering of the skin, hair breakage, cumulative irritant, severe allergic reaction.
Amyl acetate A solvent, flavouring used in perfumes, nail polish, nail polish remover, banana flavouring in foods, perfuming shoe polish. May cause headache, fatigue, chest pain, CNS depression, neuro and respiratory toxicity, mucous membrane irritation. Compound descriptor: Primary Irritant.
Amyl dimethyl PABA A UV absorber used in sunscreen preparations. May cause sensitisation, increase breast cancer cell division, estrogenic, endocrine disruption, carcinogenic. Compound descriptor: Primary Irritant.
Anethole A flavouring, denaturant used in perfume, toothpaste, mouthwash. Can cause hives, skin blistering and scaling, gum and throat irritation. Compound descriptor: Tumorigenic
Animal Fat
tallow
A type of animal tissue made up of oily solids or semisolids that are water-insoluble esters of glycerol with fatty acids. Animal fats and lye are the chief ingredients in bar soap, a cleansing and emulsifying product that may act as a breeding ground for bacteria.
Anionic Surfactants Anionic refers to the negative charge these surfactants have. They may be contaminated with nitrosamines, which are carcinogenic. Surfactants can pose serious health threats. They are used in car washes, as garage floor cleaners and engine degreasers - and in 90% of personal-care products that foam.

Sodium Lauryl Sulphate (SLS) 
Sodium Laureth Sulphate (SLES) 
Ammonium Lauryl Sulphate (ALS) 
Ammonium Laureth Sulphate (ALES) 
Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate 
Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate 
Sodium Cocoyl Sarcosinate 
Potassium Coco Hydrolysed Collagen 
TEA (Triethanolamine) Lauryl Sulphate 
TEA (Triethanolamine) Laureth Sulphate 
Lauryl or Cocoyl Sarcosine 
Disodium Oleamide Sulfosuccinate 
Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate 
Disodium Dioctyl Sulfosuccinate etc

Anise Oil Known for its warm, spicy liquorice-like scent. An antiseptic and stimulant.
Antioxidants Substances that slow the breakdown of nutrients and counteract the destructive effect of free radicals (chemically reactive compounds) in the body. There are several types which include vitamins A, E, C complex, and B complex, the minerals selenium and zinc, and the synthetic compounds BHT and BHA. Vitamins A, C, and E as well as BHA and BHT are used as preserving agents in cosmetics.
Apothecary A person who prepares and sells medications, a pharmacist. A system of weights used in the pharmacy.
Apricot Kernel A natural exfoliant especially when finely ground.
Aqua A solvent used in many cosmetics, personal care products, canned and bottled food beverages. No adverse health affects, provided that it is pure and not contaminated with chlorine, sodium fluoride, etc.
Arnica Extract Herbal extract made from the dried flowers of a mountain-loving plant. Has reviving and firming qualities.
Aroma The pleasing odour, many times recognizable, given off by a substance.
Aromatherapy The use of essences that are extracted from different parts of a plant - Root, Seed, Flower, Leaf, Bark, Fruit. These essences are called essential oils. Essential oils have numerous properties and various scents that affect us on a mental, emotional, spiritual and physical level. The art of using the essential (odour producing) oils from roots, barks, and herbs for treating the skin and body.
Ascorbic Acid Acid occurring naturally in many fruits. Also known as vitamin C; used as an antioxidant in its L-ascorbic acid form, can have skin lightening effect in certain preparations, is important to keeping as well as rebuilding healthy collagen fibres. Used as a preservative and antioxidant in food and cosmetics. Non-toxic and not a skin irritant.
Ascorbyl Palmitate Preservative with antioxidant properties: its presence helps make possible the blending of vitamins A, C, and D into a suspension for cosmetic creams and lotions.
Astringent A clear liquid containing alcohol used mostly to cleanse oily skin, closes pores with its property of contracting the skin.
Azuki Beans Traditional Japanese beans which, when ground, are excellent natural exfoliant's. Protein and mineral rich.
Azo dyes A colourant used in non-permanent hair rinses and tints, foods, beverages. Skin contact can cause hives, urticaria, asthma, hay fever, allergic reactions, bladder cancer. May be absorbed through the skin.

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