Cosmetic Ingredients Reference Guide & Dictionary
Understanding Labels, Descriptions, Warnings, and Safety
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D
Dandruff A chronic non-inflammatory scaling of the scalp. The absence of inflammation sets dandruff apart from other scaling conditions of the scalp, namely, psoriasis and seborrheic dermatitis. Dandruff can be confused with dry scalp. Dry scalp is caused by drying conditions. Wind, indoor heat, sap moisture from the scalp, causing flaking. Dandruff is the result of accelerated cell turnover and people with oily scalps tend to suffer most from dandruff. The dandruff test: brush or shake hair over dark paper. If you see powdery flakes, it's dry scalp. If you see clumps, you may have dandruff.
D&C (number) This abbreviation preceding the name of a colour means that the US FDA has certified it as safe for use in drugs and cosmetics, but not in food. D&C means that the colour can only be used externally and not around the eyes or inside the mouth. D&C colours are usually man-made. Most can cause health effects including skin rash, allergic reactions, asthma. Se Azo dyes.
Dantoin 685 A preservative used in shampoos and deodorants. Contains formaldehyde and N-acetal. Highly toxic. Also listed as DMDM hydantoin.
DEA A solvent, emulsifier. See Diethanolamine.
DEA cetyl phosphate A surfactant. May contain DEA. See Diethanolamine.
DEA cocamide A surfactant. See Cocamide DEA
DEA laureth sulphate A surfactant used in cosmetics, liquid soaps, shampoos, hair conditioners. See Diethanolamine. See Quaternary ammonium compounds.
DEA lauryl sulphate A surfactant used in cosmetics, liquid soaps, shampoos, hair conditioners. See Diethanolamine. See Quaternary ammonium compounds.
Decyl alcohol An anti-foamer, fixative used in cosmetics, perfumes, fruit flavouring in foods. Made from liquid paraffin. Low toxicity on the skin in animal testing. Compound descriptor: Agricultural Chemical, Tumorigenic, Reproductive Effector, Natural Product, Primary Irritant
Decyl myristate An emollient
Decyl oleate An emollient, emulsifier in hand creams, suntan products. May promote acne in some people, safety under review. 
Decyl polyglucose A surfactant in cosmetics. May cause skin irritation in sensitive people.
DEET Found in insect repellents. May cause neurological problems, particularly in children, in excessive or prolonged use. A skin and eye irritant
Deodorant A product that reduces perspiration odour. There are natural deodorants containing herbs like marigold and vitamin E. Deodorants do not stop perspiration.
Dehydration Loss of water/moisture from the body or skin.
Depilatories Destroy hair by breaking the chemical bonds that hold it together. After using any hair removal method, a moisturizer should be applied to soothe the skin.
Dermatitis Inflammation of the skin covering a wide variety of skin disorders and evidenced by itching, redness and various skin lesions. Can be due to one of several causes - systemic disease, skin irritants such as poison ivy, corrosives, acids and alkalies or hypersensitivity.
Dermis The second or middle layer of skin. contains the blood vessels, elastin and collagen, etc.
Detergent These artificial soaps may be made with a variety of chemicals and are frequently not biodegradable.
Dexpanthenol A anti-inflammatory. See Panthenol. Compound descriptor: Drug, Primary Irritant.
2,4-Diaminoanisole A hair dye. Allergic contact dermatitis, mutagenic, carcinogenic.

MSDS: Can affect you when breathed in. Should be handled as a CARCINOGEN--WITH EXTREME CAUTION. Contact can irritate the skin and eyes. High exposure may cause tremors, weakness, increased saliva, difficulty breathing, and diarrhoea. Repeated exposure may damage the liver and affect the thyroid.

2,4-Diaminophenol A hair dye. See Phenylenediamine
Diazolidinyl urea Established as a primary cause of contact dermatitis (American Academy of Dermatology). Contains formaldehyde, a carcinogenic chemical, is toxic by inhalation, a strong skin irritant and sensitiser & a suspected human carcinogen (known rodent carcinogen).

See Formaldehyde 

From Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS): Causes severe eye irritation. May cause skin irritation.

Signs and symptoms of Exposure:
Symptoms of Inhalation: If misted, will cause irritation of mucous membranes, nose, eyes, throat. Coughing, difficulty in breathing.
Symptoms of Skin Contact
: Contact causes smarting and burning sensations, inflammation, burns, painful blisters. Profound damage to skin tissue.

Dibehenyldimonium chloride See Quaternary ammonium compounds.
Dibenzothiophene An additive to antidandruff shampoos, acne products, psycho-pharmaceutical products. Central nervous system disorders, blood pressure problems, blood disorders. Banned in Italy in cosmetics.
Dibenzoylmethanes A UV absorber  in sunscreens. Photoallergy, contact allergy.
Dibromofluresein A colourant in indelible lipsticks. Sensitivity to light, skin rash, skin and eye inflammation, respiratory and gastrointestinal symptoms.
Dibromosalan An antiseptic, fungicide in toilet soaps, creams, lotions, powders, detergents. Light sensitivity resulting in skin rash and swelling.
Dibucaine A local anaesthetic in wax depilatories. Highly toxic to rats when injected into the abdomen
Dibutyl oxalate A chelating agent in products restricted to professional use. Oxalates are toxic.

MSDS: Potential Health Effects
Eye: May cause eye irritation.
Skin: Harmful if absorbed through the skin.
Ingestion: May cause irritation of the digestive tract. May be harmful if swallowed.
Inhalation: Harmful if inhaled.

Dibutyl phthalate A film former in perfume, nail polish, deodorant, antiperspirant, insect repellent. Banned in nail polish in the EU.

MSDS: Very toxic to aquatic organisms. May cause harm to the unborn child. Possible risk of impaired fertility.

Potential Health Effects
Eye
: May cause eye irritation. Causes redness and pain.
Skin: May cause skin irritation. Causes redness and pain. May be harmful if absorbed through the skin.
Ingestion: May cause irritation of the digestive tract. May be harmful if swallowed.
Inhalation: May cause respiratory tract irritation. May be harmful if inhaled.
Chronic: Prolonged or repeated exposure may cause nausea, dizziness, and headache.

Dicetyldimonium chloride See Quaternary ammonium compounds.
Dichloromethane - methylene chloride A solvent. See Methylene Chloride.

MSDS:
Potential Health Effects
Eye
: Contact with eyes may cause severe irritation, and possible eye burns.
Skin: Exposure may cause irritation and possible burns. May be absorbed through the skin.
Ingestion: Causes gastrointestinal irritation with nausea, vomiting and diarrhoea. May cause central nervous system depression, characterized by excitement, followed by headache, dizziness, drowsiness, and nausea. Advanced stages may cause collapse, unconsciousness, coma and possible death due to respiratory failure.
Inhalation: Inhalation of high concentrations may cause central nervous system effects characterized by nausea, headache, dizziness, unconsciousness and coma. Causes respiratory tract irritation.
Chronic: Prolonged or repeated skin contact may cause dermatitis.

Dichlorophene An anti-microbial in shampoo, antiperspirant, deodorant. 
Dicocodimonium chloride A surfactant. See Quaternary ammonium compounds.
Dicyclohexyl sodium sulphosuccinate A surfactant. See Quaternary ammonium compounds.
Didecyldimonium chloride A surfactant. See Quaternary ammonium compounds.
Diethanolamidooleamide DEA A surfactant. See Quaternary ammonium compounds. See DEA
Diethanolamine - DEA A solvent, buffer. More commonly known by its abbreviation, DEA. One of many artificial detergents. It may be contaminated with nitrosamines and should be avoided. Often used in cosmetics to adjust the pH, and used with many fatty acids to convert acid to salt (stearate), which then becomes the base for a cleanser. These chemicals are already restricted in Europe due to known carcinogenic effects.

MSDS: Harmful if swallowed. Irritating to skin. Risk of serious damage to eyes. Harmful : danger of serious damage to health by prolonged exposure if swallowed. Hygroscopic (absorbs moisture from the air).

Potential Health Effects
Eye
: Causes severe eye irritation. May cause inflammation of the cornea and iris.
Skin: May cause skin irritation. May be absorbed through the skin.
Ingestion: Causes gastrointestinal irritation with nausea, vomiting and diarrhoea. May be harmful if swallowed.
Inhalation: Causes respiratory tract irritation. May cause lung damage.
Chronic: May cause liver and kidney damage. May cause reproductive and foetal effects.

Diethylene glycol A humectant, solvent in cosmetic creams, hairsprays, paracetamol elixirs.

MSDS: Harmful if swallowed. Hygroscopic (absorbs moisture from the air).

Potential Health Effects
Eye
: May cause mild eye irritation.
Skin: May cause mild skin irritation. May be absorbed through the skin.
Ingestion: May cause liver and kidney damage. May cause central nervous system depression, characterized by excitement, followed by headache, dizziness, drowsiness, and nausea. Advanced stages may cause collapse, unconsciousness, coma and possible death due to respiratory failure. Human fatalities have been reported from acute poisoning.
Inhalation: May cause respiratory tract irritation. May be harmful if inhaled. Inhalation of heated or misted form may cause pulmonary oedema.
Chronic: Adverse reproductive effects have been reported in animals. A long term rat feeding study showed that 1% diethylene glycol in the diet over a 2-year period resulted in slight growth depression, a few calcium oxalate bladder stones, minimal kidney damage, and occasional liver damage. At 4% dietary level, there was increased mortality, a marked depression of growth rate, bladder stones, severe kidney damage, and moderate liver damage. In addition, bladder tumours appeared rather frequently.

Diethyl phthalate A solvent, fixative, denaturant in perfumes, nail polish, insect repellent. Central nervous system depression, mucous membrane, irritation, skin liver, endocrine, respiratory and neurotoxicity, teratogenic, may me hazardous to the environment.
Dihexyl adipate An emollient, solvent used in moisturisers, skin care products, makeup. Adipic acid has no known human toxicity, large oral doses to rats are lethal to rats.
Dihydroxyacetone A colouring, humectant in artificial tanning preparations. Allergic contact dermatitis, lethal in rats when injected.
Diisopropanolamine An acid-alkali adjuster used in hair dyes, permanent waves, tonics, hair grooming aids, corrosion inhibitor. On NIH hazards list. Can combine with nitrosating agents to form nitrosamines.

MSDS: Irritating to eyes. Hygroscopic (absorbs moisture from the air).

Potential Health Effects
Eye
: Causes eye irritation. Causes redness and pain.
Skin: Causes mild skin irritation. Causes redness and pain.
Ingestion: Expected to be a low ingestion hazard. May cause nausea and vomiting.
Inhalation: May cause respiratory tract irritation. Inhalation may be fatal as a result of spasm, inflammation, oedema of the larynx and bronchi, chemical pneumonitis and pulmonary oedema.

Dimethicone An antifoaming agent, emollient, giving a smooth feel to a cosmetic cream or lotion. Various allergic reactions and internal problems make them questionable as cosmetic ingredients. Although they're still widely used, they should be avoided. Many herbal oils, such as vegetable glycerine, can easily replace this chemical. See Silicone derived emollients.
Dimethicone Copolyol See Silicone derived emollients
Dimethyl phthalate A film former, solvent in musk, calamine lotion, insect repellent, insecticides. Phthalate linked with testicular cancer and cell mutations, neurotoxicity, teratogenic, can be absorbed through the skin.

MSDS: Irritating to eyes and respiratory system.

Potential Health Effects
The toxicological properties of this material have not been investigated. Use appropriate procedures to prevent opportunities for direct contact with the skin or eyes and to prevent inhalation.

Dioctyl phthalate A flim former, solvent in perfumes, ail enamels, pesticides. Phthalate linked with testicular cancer and cell mutations, central nervous system depression, teratogenic, bioaccumulation may occur in seafood.

MSDS: May impair fertility. May cause harm to the unborn child.

Potential Health Effects
Eye
: May cause eye irritation. Causes redness and pain.
Skin: May cause skin irritation. Causes redness and pain. May be harmful if absorbed through the skin.
Ingestion: May cause irritation of the digestive tract. May be harmful if swallowed. May cause central nervous system depression.
Inhalation: May cause respiratory tract irritation. May be harmful if inhaled.
Chronic: Prolonged or repeated exposure may cause nausea, dizziness, and headache.

Dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate A surfactant used in hair styling products. Considered safe as presently used in cosmetics.
Dioform Many tooth pastes and other tooth whiteners contain it. Damages your teeth enamel weakening their protective shell.
Dioxins A potentially carcinogenic by-product that results from the process used to bleach paper at paper mills. Dioxin-treated containers sometimes transfer dioxins to the product itself. (see Sodium Laureth Sulfate). According to Dr. Epstein, "The Health Protection Branch of Canada has reported dioxin levels in the parts per trillion range in several samples of milk and cream packaged in bleached milk cartons manufactured in the United States. Dioxin has migrated from the cartons to the milk. Very likely U.S. milk products are similarly contaminated with dioxin. Dioxin's carcinogenicity is up to 500,000 times more potent than that of DDT." http://www.chej.org
Disodium Dioctyl Sulfosuccinate See Anionic surfactants
Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate See Anionic surfactants
See Ethoxylated surfactants
Disodium Oleamide Sulfosuccinate See Anionic Surfactants
1,4-Dioxane A carcinogenic contaminant of cosmetic products. Almost 50% of cosmetics containing ethoxylated surfactants were found to contain dioxane. See Ethoxylated surfactants 

From Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS): 
1,4-Dioxane may exert its effects through inhalation, skin absorption and ingestion.
1,4-Dioxane is listed as a carcinogenic.

Effects of Overexposure: 1,4-Dioxane is an eye and mucous membrane irritant, primary skin irritant, central nervous system depressant, nephrotoxin and heptatoxin. Acute exposure can cause irritation, headache, dizziness and narcosis. Chronic inhalation exposure can produce damage to the liver and kidneys, and blood disorders.

Medical condition aggravated by exposure. Preclude from exposure those individuals with disease of the blood, liver, kidneys, nervous system, and those susceptible to dermatitis.

Dioxin A contaminate which may be present in processed foods, chlorine bleach paper, plastic lined cartons and cans, newsprint, pesticides, released when plastic is burnt.
Diphenyl methane A fragrance in perfumed soaps. Local skin irritation, reaction to sunlight (prickling, swelling, pigmentation).

MSDS: Potential Health Effects
The toxicological properties of this material have not been investigated. Use appropriate procedures to prevent opportunities for direct contact with the skin or eyes and to prevent inhalation.

Diphenyl oxide A chelating agent in perfumery, perfumed soaps. Vapour toxic if inhaled.

MSDS: Irritating to eyes, respiratory system and skin. Toxic to aquatic organisms, may cause long-term adverse effects in the aquatic environment.

Disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate A surfactant in shampoo, body wash, bubble bath, household detergent. May be contaminated with carcinogenic nitrosamines.
Disodium oleamide sulfosuccinate A surfactant in shampoo, body wash, bubble bath, household detergent. May be contaminated with carcinogenic nitrosamines.
Distearyldimonium chloride An antistatic agent. See Quaternary ammonium compounds.
DMAE An emollient, firming agent in skin toners, face and eye cream, "anti-aging" creams, oral supplements. Supplemental DMAE is considered to have beneficial effects on health.
DMDM Hydantoin Found as a preservative in many cosmetics, shampoo, mascara, cream conditioners.. Can be a skin and eye irritant, allergic reactions, dermatitis, may release formaldehyde.

See Dantoin 685.
See Formaldehyde

Dodecylbenzene sulphonic acid A surfactant in shampoo, detergent. Skin irritation and sensitisation, vomiting if ingested, toxic to aquatic organisms.
Dodecylbenzene trimonium chloride A surfactant. See Quaternary ammonium compounds.
Dodecylhexadecyltrimonium chloride An antistatic agent. See Quaternary ammonium compounds.
Dried egg yolk A colouring protein in cosmetics, root beer, soups, coffee. Allergic reaction may include hives, eczema, anaphylaxis
Drometrizole A solvent, UV absorber in nail polish, cosmetics. Determined not to be safe in cosmetics use by US CIR Expert panel. See Benzene.

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